Mera and Island Peak Climbing

Facts of Trip

Destination: Nepal

Duration: 23

Trip Grade: Very Strenuous

ACCOMODATION : Tent Guesthouse,Hotel

MAX ALTITUDE: 6476 Meters

Best Time : April - June and Sept - Nov

Grope Size : Minimum 2 People

Trip Highlights

  • Climb two peaks above 6000 meters in 24 days - Mera Peak (the highest trekking peak) and Island Peak
  • Hike across glaciers and the Amphu Laptsa Pass, one of the most challenging mountains passes in the world
  • Walk past dramatic river valleys– Dudh Koshi, Hinku, Hongu, Chukkung, and Imja valleys
  • Visit two national parks - Makalu Barun National Park and Sagarmatha National Park
  • The ideal climbing adventure to prepare yourself for an 8000-meter ascent
  • Remarkable views of Kangchenjunga, Makalu, Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Cho Oyu and many other mountains
  • Summit to highest trekking peak, Mera peak at elevation of 6,654 meters. And Island peak at elevation of 6,187 meters

 

Mera Peak (6,476m) and Island Peak (6,189m) presents an awesome chance to ascend two higher peaks set fairly close geographically but are divided by the gigantic peak series that separates the Khumbu from Hongu Valleys. Mera and Island Peaks Climbing also provides a chance to traverse the remote and striking Amphu Labtsa Pass (5,780m). Specifically, Mera peak climbing offers amazing views to the Langtang region in the west from Kangchenjunga in the east while Island Peak is dwarfed by the massive Lhotse Face to the north.
 
Astounding views of five of fourteen highest pinnacles on the planet including the highest mountain of the world; Everest (8848 meters), Lhotse (8516 meters) fourth highest peak of the world, Mount Kanchenjunga (8586 meters) third highest peak of the world, Mount Makalu (8462 meters) Fifth highest peak and mount Cho Oyu (8201 meters) sixth highest peak of the world and many other peaks visible from Mera Peak Summit in one panorama, surely is one of the most sensational mountain panorama on the planet.
 
Walking across snow and ice you navigate ice falls and crevasses to reach the summits of Mera and island peaks. The summit push is grueling and lasts for about 8 to 12 hours. The extreme cold and thin air will make your ascent to the top doubly challenging. But the experience of standing atop the summits, close to the highest mountains on earth including Mount Everest is unbeatable.
 
To start our Mera and Island Peaks Climbing, we will fly to Lukla from Kathmandu and then start walking. Walking ahead from Chutok La pass, we will trek to Pangkong and go across Col Khari La. En-route, we will also pass all the way through rock-strewn settings. Moreover, we will walk by lovely meadows and woody area filled with blue Himalayan pines and rhododendron trees to get to Khothey. With proper adaptation at Tangnag, we will go up next to the side moraine of the Dig Glacier and arrive at Khare from where we will trek to Mera Base Camp. From the  base camp, walk further on to the High Camp which presents wonderful views of massive mountains like Chamlang (7290m), Baruntse (7220m), Everest (8848m), Makalu (8475m), Lhotse (8501m) etc. to experience one of the highlights of expedition, we will climb to Mera Peak summit (6476 m).
 
This is a challenging adventure which people with experience of high altitude trekking and hiking can do. A high degree of physical fitness and endurance level is a must. The previous climbing experience though not required, will be helpful. Novice climbers will be taught basic climbing skills at the pre-climb training camp. An experienced climbing and trekking crew led by a Sherpa climbing guide with more than two decades of experience will help you achieve your goal. Safety procedures will be strictly followed. All permits are included in the package.
 
This is the ultimate trekking and climbing adventure that will surely occupy the top spot in your list of most daring journeys.

Day to Day Itinerary

Day 01: : Arrive at Tribhuwan International Airport (KTM) Kathmandu

Day 02: : Preparation for peak climbing and Kathmandu Valley sightseeing tour

Day 03: : Fly to Lukla (2,800 m/9,184 ft) and trek to Chutanga (3450m/10004ft)

Day 04: : Trek to Zatrabok (4600m) via Zatrawala Pass (4704m) Duration: 6 hrs

Day 05: : Trek to Kothe (3,691m/12,109ft) 6-7 hours trek

Day 06: : Trek to Tangnang (4356m) Duration:5 hrs

Day 07: : Trek to Khare (5,045m/16,486ft) 2-3 hours

Day 08: : Acclimatization Day in Khare and Pre-Climb Training

Day 09: : Trek to Mera High Camp (5,780m/18,958ft) 5-6 hours trek

Day 10: : Summit Mera Peak (6,461m/21,1907ft) and trek to Kongma Dingma (4850m/ 15,912ft)

Day 11: : Contingency Day for the summit

Day 12: : Trek to Seto Pokhari (5035m/16,520ft)

Day 13: : Trek to Amphu Lapcha Base Camp South (5,650m/18,538ft) 5-6 hours trek

Day 14: : Cross Amphu Lapcha (5,845m/19,177 ft) and trek to Island Peak Base Camp 5,200m/17,061ft 9 hours trek

Day 15: : Imja Valley to Island Peak High Camp (5,600m/18,372ft) Duration: 4 -5 hours

Day 16: : Summit Island Peak (6,189m/20,306ft) and trek to Chukkung (4,730m/15,519ft)

Day 17: : Spare summit day

Day 18: : Trek to Tengboche (3,860m/12,660ft) 6 hours.

Day 19: : Trek to Namche (3440m/11283ft) Duration:4 hours

Day 20: : Trek to Lukla (2,800m/9,187ft) 6-7 hours trek

Day 21: : Fly back to Kathmandu

Day 22: : Leisure day in Kathmandu.

Day 23: : Transfer to the International Airport for final departure

Cost Include

  • Airport and hotel transfers as per itinerary in private vehicle
  • Four  nights twin sharing accommodation in 3-star hotel in Kathmandu with breakfast
  • Round trip flight Kathmandu – Lukla– Kathmandu including departure taxes
  • Full board meals (breakfast, lunch and dinner) during the trek and climb
  • Best available accommodation in Local Mountain lodges during the trek and tented accommodation during climbing; we provide rooms with private bathrooms and hot shower at Namche and Lukla
  • Staff– one professional, knowledgeable and friendly English speaking climbing leader, assistant guide (6 trekkers : 1 assistant guide)  and necessary porters and helpers including their food, accommodation, salary, equipment, transportation, and insurance
  • Climbing equipment (Climbing Rope, Ice Screw, Snow Bar, Ice Hammer
  • Climbing guide from base camp for the summit and back to base camp
  • Trekking map and trip achievement certificate
  • First aid medical kit
  • Mera peak climbing Permit, National Park Permits (Please bring 2 passport size photos for permit)
  • All government taxes & office service charge

 

Cost Exclude

Meals not specified in the 'Meal Inclusions' in the itinerary'
Travel insurance
International airfare
Nepal entry visa
All kind of cold drinks including water during the trek.
Hot shower during the trek
Trekking and climbing equipment
WiFi internet, phone call, laundry etc.
Tips and gratuities for trekking staff and drivers

Day 01:Arrive at Tribhuwan International Airport (KTM) KathmanduWelcome to Kathmandu! As you land at Kathmandu airport (Tribhuvan International Airport), reclaim your luggage and finish your custom formalities (visa, etc.) and get to the airport waiting terminal, you will find our representative waiting to greet you. He/she will be holding Accessible Adventure signboard with your name. You will be then transferred to your respective hotel in our private vehicle. You can rest at your hotel to recover from jet lag or if you have plenty of time you can visit Thamel market for any lacking gears for your Mera Peak Climbing Trip. Accommodation: City Hotel

Day 02:Preparation for peak climbing and Kathmandu Valley sightseeing tour This is a day to get prepared for Mera Peak and Island Peak climbing. You can also experience sightseeing tour around UNESCO World heritage Sites in Kathmandu. You will visit Swayambhunath Temple which is the sign of religious tolerance between Hindus and Buddhists in Nepal. Also, you will travel around Kathmandu Durbar Square which has different tourists appealing places like Hanumandhoka- old royal palace, Shiva Parbati Temple, Taleju Temple, the home of Living Goddess and some other temples spread around. We will likewise visit Boudhanath Stupa, one of the biggest stupas in the planet where you will see prayer flags, small chortens and peaceful settings. Visiting Pashupatinath Temple is another mesmerizing part which is dedicated to Lord Shiva. Overnight at hotel, breakfast included

Day 03: Fly to Lukla (2,800 m/9,184 ft) and trek to Chutanga (3450m/10004ft) We head to the airport early in the morning and take a flight to Lukla. The air route is fascinating in itself, flying above the greenery and White Mountains. Upon arrival, the guide will brief you and introduce our porters. We then begin our trek to the Chutok La pass (2945). Overnight stay at Guesthouse, breakfast, lunch and dinner included.

Day 04: Trek to Zatrabok (4600m) via Zatrawala Pass (4704m) Duration: 6 hrs We start after brealfast on 1300m ascent to the Zatwra then a short traverse to the Zatwra La pass proper. As you are still not acclimatized it is generally a hard walk, even if the conditions are good (no snow). If there is snow, Zatrwa La can get considerable amount of snow and you might need to use crampons and ice axes as well as install fixed ropes to safeguard porters. Once at the pass it is only a short steep descent to Thuli Kharka (big pasture) where there are several basic lodges. Walking time 6-7 hrsOvernight stay at Guesthouse, breakfast, lunch and dinner included.

Day 05:Trek to Kothe (3,691m/12,109ft) 6-7 hours trek It will be an easier trek to Kothe today. We start heading northwest to Kothe with a short climb from Khola Kharka for half an hour. Then the descent starts, which is gentle in the beginning; then it’s a steep decline all the way down to the bottom of V-shaped Hinku Valley, named after the Hinku Khola (River) which passes through the valley. The landscape changes from rocky terrain to green bushes and trees. We will be walking on the right side of the river. The path gradually climbs up northward. Just as we are about to reach Kothe, we will cross the white-water Hinku Khola through a wooded bridge. We will encounter no settlements on our walk on this day. Overnight at a guesthouse Breakfast, lunch and dinner included

Day 06:Trek to Tangnang (4356m) Duration:5 hrs After Kothe, we reach the Upper Hinku valley where the treeline disappears. There are no villages en route only 'kharkas' the summer camps of yak herders dot the landscape. Walk past Gondishung and Lungsumgba Gompa, a two-centuries-old Buddhist shrine. Lying underneath an enormous boulder, the local crew pay homage to deities burning incense. En-route enjoy amazing views of Charpati Himal, Mera Peak, Kusum Kanguru, and Thamserku. After walking for about an hour we reach Thaknak, a summer camp of yak herders. Charpati Himal lies close to the teahouse and we can see the whole mountain. Overnight at a teahouse in Thaknak

Day 07:Trek to Khare (5,045m/16,486ft) 2-3 hours The trail goes eastward through the Thangnak meadow amidst blocks brought by the break of the moraine of the south side of the lake in 1999. Then it climbs steeply to the stream bed coming out on the wide grassy basin of Dig Kharka. We reach Khare in about 4 to 5 hours of trekking. From the village, we can see the superb views of the northern face of the Mera Peak. Overnight at a guesthouse. Breakfast, lunch and dinner included.

Day 08:Acclimatization Day in Khare and Pre-Climb Training Today you will spend your time acclimatizing and practicing your climbing moves at the pre-climb training camp. Our Sherpa climbing guides will teach you how to properly use climbing equipment like jumar, carabiner, belay device, ice axe, harness, etc. They will teach you the basic and safe techniques to scale an incline using a rope and harness. This training is valuable and helpful if you are a novice climber. A final gear and equipment check will be followed by final packing for the summit push. Please keep in mind climbing boots of size 12 and greater are not readily available in Nepal. If your shoe size is 12 or 12 plus you need to bring it with you from your home country. Overnight at a guesthouse Breakfast, lunch and dinner included.

Day 09:Trek to Mera High Camp (5,780m/18,958ft) 5-6 hours trek As we progress along the snowy glacier, we approach the pass and the slope becomes steep. This is one of the best parts of the trek. Stunning panoramas of giant mountains rising above 7,000 m, among the highest on earth: Chamlang (7,290 m), Makalu (8,475 m) and Baruntse (7,220 m) to the east; Everest (8,848 m), Lhotse (8,501 m) and Nuptse to the north cannot be ignored. Continuing westward, peaks of Ama Dablam, Cho Oyo (8,153 m) and Kantega doesn’t fail to fill our view. Overnight at a tented camp. Breakfast, lunch and dinner included

Day 10:Summit Mera Peak (6,461m/21,1907ft) and trek to Kongma Dingma (4850m/ 15,912ft) Our Sherpa will wake you up at about 2 am with hot tea and we all will have a high energy meal before starting the summit ascent of Mera Peak. Starting through the main glacier, crossing to the south side we approach the snow hump-back ridge. This part of the route is not technical but 30 degree slopes are still tough. The slope steepens for a section behind the ridge and then you swing diagonally westward. The summit comes back into view and you are on the level summit ridge. At the foot of the final steep ascent you will attach to a fixed rope laid by your guide and use your ice axe and a jumar to climb the final 30 metre 55 degree pitch to reach Mera Peak’s summit. A spectacular panorama greets you with clear views over to Everest. Once you’ve had chance to take this all in and congratulate yourself on an amazing achievement, and then we will descend into the Hongu Valley, down to Kongma Dingma. Overnight at tented at camp | Meals: high foods included.

Day 11:Contingency Day for the summit This day we use to keep as a spare day, set aside in case we have to postpone the attempt on the peak because of bad weather or because some of us have not acclimatized well enough to make the ascent. If we are successful in making the summit on day 14, we use this day for another Ice climbing day or spent one more night at village of LuklaOvernight at tented at camp | Meals: high foods included.

Day 12:Trek to Seto Pokhari (5035m/16,520ft) We continue to trek through the Hongu Valley, a very high and remote valley with no inhabitants. Real wilderness, real remoteness can be felt in this beautiful valley. Huge flanks of Mt. Chamlang dominate on our left, and the spire of Baruntse comes into view beyond. The environment is remarkably compassionate, especially considering we are actually heading directly into the very epicenter of the highest group of mountains in the world. The valley floor remains broad and straight, only gradually rising to the blind alley of peaks ahead. It is almost a shock to realize that the two majestic mountains we are heading straight towards are none other than Everest and Lhotse. We climb steadily up to and just beyond Seto Pokhari and camp there. Seto Pokhari means White Lake, the water in the lake is white may be due to ice conditions. Overnight at tented at camp | Meals: high foods included.

Day 13:Trek to Amphu Lapcha Base Camp South (5,650m/18,538ft) 5-6 hours trek Climbing up a snowy moraine we reach the beautiful Seto Pokhari, a glacial lake. Head to Amphu Lapcha Base Camp enjoying views of Mount Everest and lakes along the Hongu basin. A walk past the Hongu Pokhari above the Hongu valley brings us finally to the Amphu Lapcha Base Camp. Overnight at a tented Camp in Amphu Lapcha Base Camp

Day 14:Cross Amphu Lapcha (5,845m/19,177 ft) and trek to Island Peak Base Camp 5,200m/17,061ft 9 hours trek Today, we have a real day of challenge ahead of us. On the South side the pass is an interesting traverse of scree slopes and layered glacier wall that we have to ascend. We trek along a fantastic icefall to the crest of the pass at 5850m. Here we have stunning views of Island Peak, Lhotse and Nuptse looming over the Imja Valley. The descent down to the valley is steep with a section that we negotiate by abseiling; looking back it will be quite an awesome feeling. We carry on descending on moraine to camp beside the Imaja Glacier and enter the Imja Valley where we spend the night. Overnight at tented at camp | Meals: high foods included.

Day 15:Imja Valley to Island Peak High Camp (5,600m/18,372ft) Duration: 4 -5 hours It’s the easy gradual trail up to Island Peak Base Camp. We cross a river and follow the valley for approx 3 hour. Passing beneath the magnificent south face of Lhotse. Base camp is by the side of the Imja glacier, below steep grassy slopes which mark the start of the climb on Island Peak. From Island Peak Base Camp the trail is moderately steep. First, we climb south then turn east to the contour of the valley. We then walk on a zigzag path below the southern flank of Lhotse Glacier moraine. We continue walking on a pleasant trail along a streamside. At southeast, we see the Amphu Labtsa route. A network route through the Imja and Lhotse glacier moraines leads to a spacious valley (Pareshaya Gyab) nearby the southwest side of Island Peak where we will set our tents. After a brief rest, our climbing guide will instruct you the methods of using climbing equipments and some technical climbing skills. Along with practical knowledge on using climbing gears like ice axe, climbing boots and crampons, harness, ascender, etc., you will also learn using ropes to go up and down. Although it is not mandatory to have prior training for Island Peak Climbing, we strongly believe that some training will boost your confidence and climbing skills to increase the chances of scaling the summit safely together with a fun experience. Overnight at tented at camp | Meals: high foods included.

Day 16:Summit Island Peak (6,189m/20,306ft) and trek to Chukkung (4,730m/15,519ft) After breakfast, we carry your pack and head out at 1 AM. Our daypack consists of snacks, camera, packed lunch, water, and any memento we want to leave at the summit. After ascending a rocky path you reach High Camp. Continue on a slope for about 3 hours to reach Crampon Point, the place where we put on our crampons as the trail becomes icy and snowy. We move ahead on a frozen trail in a group. From 5700m onwards the group will be secured by a man-rope. Walking on a narrow ridge brings us to the base of Imja Glacier. The sunrise over the Makalu, Ama Dablam, Baruntse, and Chamlang look stunning. As the slope is at an angle of 45 to 50 degrees the ascent is not that technical. The guides fix the ropes at the glacier. As we near the summit Lhotse appears very close. Lhotse hides the summit of Everest, so Mount Everest is not visible from Island Peak. The climb up a vertical wall using fixed rope before reaching the summit is the toughest part. We ascend the anchor points and cross crevasses using ladders. Holding on to the fixed rope and we walk along the ridgeline to the summit. The views are amazing. We have done it! At the summit, we take pictures and return via the same route. The descent is long and exhausting. We need to be extra careful as most of the accidents at Island Peak happen during descents. On reaching Base Camp we take rest and celebrate our victory. Later in the day, we hike down to Chukkung. Overnight at a teahouse in Chukkung.

Day 17:Spare summit day This is a spare day to avoid a bad weather problem before reaching to the peak of the summit. In case of good weather and trouble free climbing we do not need this day. Overnight at tented camp/teahouse, full board meals included.

Day 18:Trek to Tengboche (3,860m/12,660ft) 6 hours. Today, we must feel a lot better with gradual drop in altitude. Breathing is much easier. From Island Peak Base camp, we walk occasionally through some glacier moraines until we reach the village of Chukung. Then following the river and the moraine we descend to Dingboche. Notice the change in shape of Amadablam today as we are too near of it. Under the shadows of Ama Dablam the valley narrows, we cross a suspension bridge and reach Shomare and continue to Pangboche. We have a lunch and relax time at Pangboche. We continue toward Tengboche. We The trail to Tengboche is through beautiful rhododendron forest. The trail until Deboche from Pangboche is popular as ‘Musk Deer Way’ as you can spot musk deer this part of the way. Watch for the other Himalayan faunas too. Today is a lovely trek through dense vegetation after many days of trek through the barren himalayan landscape. Upon reaching Tengboche, you may visit the Tengboche Monastery and participate in the daily ceremony there. Overnight at tented camp/teahouse, full board meals included.

Day 19:Trek to Namche (3440m/11283ft) Duration:4 hours The walk today is in the shadow of the pine trees and rhododendrons forest that line these well-trodden trails. Watch out for faunas such as mountain goats, snow leopards, colorful pheasants, etc too in these trails. After several ups and downs we come near by the army camp at Namche Bazzar from where we take last look at the Everest which will be no more visible ahead on this back trek. On reaching our lodge at Namche, we take a nice hot shower that will help relief our tired muscles. You will have a very relaxed sleep in one of the room with attached bathroom in Namche Bazaar. Tucked away between two ridges amidst the giant peaks of the Khumbu, Namche Bazzar is centre of Everest region and has plenty of lodges, tea shops, souvenir shops, money exchangers, government offices, ATMs, Internet cafes, restaurants, bakeries, etc. You can also even enjoy colorful market each Friday evening and Saturday. You can visit Visitor Center near the headquarter of the Sagarmatha National Park where you can observe an assortment of things allied to the first Everest ascenders, Sherpa culture and learn about the various flora and fauna of the Sagarmatha National Park. Or you may just opt to relax in your room as you are just back from several very strenuous days. We chose your stay at Namche Bazzar today as its a beautiful Sherpa town to observe, roam around and relax. If you like to trek more, you may opt to trek down to Monjo to make your next days trek short.guesthouse, breakfast, lunch and dinner included.

Day 20:Trek to Lukla (2,800m/9,187ft) 6-7 hours trek Crossing the metal bridges covered with prayer flags and pine forests you descend to Lukla. Walk past the village of Monjo and the gate of the Sagarmatha National Park. An easy descent via the village of Phakding brings you once again to Lukla. Celebrations follow and you spend a joyous evening with the local crew celebrating your achievement. Overnight at a teahouse in Lukla.

Day 21:Fly back to Kathmandu Bid goodbye to the mountains and fly to Kathmandu. Once you reach Kathmandu, check-in at your hotel and take a rest. Evening or late afternoon you can explore Thamel by yourself and shop for souvenirs.Overnight at hotel, breakfast included.

Day 22:Leisure day in Kathmandu. Spend the day in Kathmandu, to rest or to explore, as per your inclination. Overnight at hotel, breakfast included.

Day 23:Transfer to the International Airport for final departure We will drop you at the international airport well on time (3 hours before departure) to catch your flight. If you wish to explore more of the Himalayas do get in touch with us. We will be more than happy to organize a trip for you.

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